Inventing the scent of Christmas: How Bath & Body Works comes up with its annual slew of holiday products

nexninja
9 Min Read


New York
CNN
 — 

For some, tis the season when Starbucks’ vacation cups formally hit the counter. For others, it solely really seems like the vacation season after they can really odor it. Bathtub & Physique Works, the purveyor of scented merchandise, has figured this out.

International analysis, the event of a core cult of repeat patrons and smells crafted to evoke meals flavors, nostalgia or luxurious are methods the corporate has used to seize $7 billion of annual gross sales.

In different phrases, gross sales blockbuster “Vanilla Bean Noel” is not any accident.

Yearly, simply in time for the vacations, Bathtub & Physique Works brings out its vacation assortment of candles, soaps, lotions and room fragrances priced from to $1.95 to $26.95 per product. The year-end quarter that covers the runup to Christmas additionally occurs to be probably the most essential gross sales interval for the retailer.

“The vacation interval makes up 38% to 40% of annual gross sales for Bathtub & Physique Works, so it’s a very massive quarter for them additionally as a result of their merchandise are extremely giftable,” mentioned Lorraine Hutchinson, analyst with Financial institution of America Securities.

Meaning the retailer has to maintain delivering a recent sensory tackle the vacations 12 months after 12 months.

“We really by no means cease eager about the vacations,” Julie Rosen, president of retail at Bathtub & Physique Works, mentioned in an interview with CNN. “We have now prospects who come to us for our heritage scents which have turn out to be a part of their household traditions, like ‘Recent Balsam,’ ‘Tis the Season’ or ‘Vanilla Bean Noel.’”

However simply what number of alternative ways are there to maintain bottling up the festive “scents” of winter? You’d be stunned, mentioned Rosen.

“Simply to offer you a gauge, we launched 65 new fragrances this vacation. It’s often the interval after we launch probably the most fragrances. So that you’ve received to start out the method a 12 months out,” she mentioned. It’s an endeavor that includes Rosen and her workforce touring the world for data and inspiration.

A woman stocks shelves with Christmas gifts at Bath & Body Works in Annapolis, Maryland, on December 14.

That’s numerous frequent-flier miles for a comparatively younger firm.

Bathtub & Physique Works first began out as a line of skincare merchandise that offered at style clothes chain Specific. From there, a primary Bath & Body Works idea retailer opened in Boston in September of 1990.

By the next 12 months, it had expanded to 50 shops.

Simply six years later, the fledgling chain had ballooned to 500 shops with $1 billion in gross sales. It doubled gross sales to $2 billion by 2004.

Because the enterprise grew, so did its largely feminine fanbase, a few of whom developed an emotional attachment to the merchandise. It’s not unusual to seek out loads of fan pages on TikTok or YouTube devoted to a favourite cleaning soap or cream or the recognition of the model’s three-wick candles, or customers discussing their “haul” from the retailer’s semi-annual sale.

Bathtub & Physique Works grew to become a publicly traded firm in 2021 with over $7 billion in income.

The important thing to its quick progress, mentioned Hutchinson, is that “the corporate is aware of its core merchandise very properly and does an excellent job guaranteeing newness by innovating.”

At the moment, Bathtub & Physique Works operates over 1,800 shops in america and Canada and has greater than 450 franchised areas in worldwide markets.

The genesis of their vacation merchandise begins with what Rosen describes as “patterning.” It includes a bunch of individuals from totally different models — merchandising, design and product groups — who journey to varied nations to identify tendencies.

She mentioned the ah-ha second may “actually come from a taste we style, a notice we odor or a macro development,” she mentioned. The retailer then develops new scents by using the experience of perfume homes equivalent to Switzerland-based Firmenich and Givaudan.

People shop in a Bath & Body Works store as Black Friday sales begin at The Outlet Shoppes of the Bluegrass in Simpsonville, Kentucky, on November 26, 2021.

Then comes the enjoyable half: “Perfume homes have a taste division. Oftentimes we faucet into the flavorist as we develop scent,” mentioned Rosen.

The intent is to have a scent create a visceral second for the person: “We have now a Merry Cookie candle this 12 months with notes of freshly baked cookies, vanilla and glowing sugar. It actually makes your mouth water once you odor it,” she mentioned.

One other problem of the perfume formulation is making a scent that’s versatile and may work as a physique spray, a hand cleaning soap, physique cream and likewise a house perfume.

For Bathtub & Physique Works’ 2023 vacation assortment, which launched in October, Rosen and her workforce traveled to London, Paris, Amsterdam, Montreal, Japan and to a number of locations round america each for mapping tendencies and to make sure that what they did give you would have international enchantment.

The recognition of storybooks was one development that jumped out early.

“Our vacation theme this 12 months is rooted in what we noticed in Europe and Japan with storybooks. We had been in Japan in January and mentioned, ‘Oh my God, there’s something taking place with storybooks,’” mentioned Rosen. “We took the concept and threaded it all through our shops and on-line with advertising and marketing that appears like massive story books. Even our present units seem like storybooks.”

The Storybook Assortment has physique sprays and lotions named “Brilliant Christmas Morning,” “Frosted Coconut Snowball” and “Gingerbread Bakery.”

The recognition of cookie butter was one other discover. “We noticed this development at each flip. So what had been we going to do with cookie butter?” mentioned Rosen.

The workforce held a tasting session for quite a lot of cookie butter interpretations. That led to the launch of the vacation Cookie Butter Truffle cleaning soap.

Bath & Body Works' Cozy Vanilla Bourbon scent was a result of seeing a trend in the foods and flavors space while at the same time seeing dark liquors and speakeasies grow in popularity.

Then there’s “Cozy Vanilla Bourbon.” Vanilla scented merchandise are perennial topsellers for the retailer.

“Vanilla-based substances had been positively trending out there this 12 months,” Rosen mentioned. “On the similar time we noticed tendencies centered round darkish liquors and speakeasies popping up in all places.”

So the innovation workforce mixed each concepts to create Cozy Vanilla Bourbon-scented physique wash.

“We had success with our Candy Whiskey merchandise, which was a vanilla-infused Whiskey scent. We wished to push the boozy speakeasy and vanilla thought by combining the acquainted with the much less acquainted,” mentioned Rosen.

With Christmas quick approaching adopted by the countdown to the New Yr, Rosen mentioned the main focus has already jumped forward to the brand new scents of 2024 right through to subsequent Christmas.

Below its new CEO Gina Boswell, who took the helm in December 2022, Bathtub & Physique Works is pushing the model into newer classes equivalent to men’s skin, hair and body care and even laundry detergent.

It’s a crucial transfer at a time when the retailer is dealing with slowing demand general for discretionary purchases and declining gross sales after having fun with sturdy pandemic-time demand from home-bound households for merchandise equivalent to soaps and sanitizers, candles and residential fresheners.

Boswell mentioned in a latest earnings name with analysts in November that males’s and laundry are progress areas for the enterprise.

“We’re fairly excited in regards to the males’s alternative. It’s nonetheless a small proportion of our enterprise immediately … Whereas (males’s) has been rising double-digit, we’re leaning in to gas that progress,” Boswell mentioned.

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